Should we be wary of synthetic perfumes?
At a time when the trend is to go green and natural in all aspects of our lives, we are wondering about the artificial ingredients in our cosmetics and perfumes. Because yes, if you thought your perfume was totally natural... it's not! Don't panic, we explain everything about these synthetic molecules that scare us so much.
Modern, but not brand new
It was in the 19th century that the perfume industry was disrupted by synthesis. With the advent of these new ingredients created artificially by chemical reaction, the classics of perfumery of the time (especially eaux de Cologne) were quickly replaced by new fragrances. Cheaper, synthetic molecules allowed for faster production in larger quantities, and democratised perfume in just a few years. This was the beginning of perfumery as we know it today - and to discover the whole history of perfumery (especially French), read this article.
In concrete terms, what is the purpose of synthesis?
Firstly, synthesis allows for the low-cost recreation of naturally occurring odours: for example, vanillin, which is naturally present in vanilla beans, the cost of which has reached stratospheric levels due to years of difficult harvests and increasing global demand.
Synthesis also allows to extract components natural: for example, from sage one can extract from ambroxanA synthetic molecule with an ambery scent similar to ambergris - a prized musk from the sperm whale. In this case, the synthesis is said to be of natural origin. Do you follow us?
In addition, synthesis makes it possible to replicate nature in the laboratory, when it is impossible to use an odor in its natural state. This is where it gets complicated! Perhaps you know the smell of lilac or lily of the valley? Unfortunately, these flowers are said to be "mute", which means that it is impossible for us to extract their fragrance: their olfactory yield is too low, or even zero. This actually concerns the majority of flowers we know... and synthesis allows us to recreate those smells we love so much.
Finally, synthesis is also used to protect animals. Historically, many of the essential oils used in perfumes were of animal origin (these are the famous musks, which give the perfumes their strength and sensuality). These oils were obtained in circumstances that were rarely respectful of animal welfare. Rest assured, they are now banned in Europe: synthetic musks are now used to leave animals in peace!
Searching for the unknown smell
The ultimate goal of synthesis is to expand the perfumer's palette. And for this, synthesis from nature is not enough: real artificial chemistry must be used to create entirely new fragrance molecules, such as aldehydes - first seen in Chanel's N°5.
You're going to ask us: but how do you inventing a smell that no one has ever smelled before. ? It takes several years of complex research, during which scientists will experiment with different chemical reactions, often using molecules from petrochemicals (not very glamorous, we grant you).
To give you an idea, the major players in the perfume industry invest about 10% of their turnover in their R&D department! If so much money is invested, it's because the stakes are very high: once a synthetic molecule is developed by a player, he can keep a monopoly on it for 20 years. This allows him to create new fragrances with it, but also to sell his discovery to competitors - so that they in turn can use it in their own fragrances.
Today, on average, over 60% of fragrance ingredients are synthetic. So why have we decided to do things differently at Bastille, and limit the synthetic content of our formulas to 5%?
Why synthetics are so scary
There's a good reason why we've chosen to go natural at Bastille. Even if synthetic molecules are highly regulated, they can sometimes present risks for the environment, but also for our health.
Synthetic molecules are often derived from petrochemicals, and their manufacture uses fossil energy... and therefore causes a lot of pollution. This is why we prefer natural ingredients. However, we don't mean to say that deforesting entire plots of land to produce sandalwood essential oil has no environmental impact, on the contrary! In fact, to ensure that our raw materials are produced with respect for nature, we have chosen to work with IFF LMR. A pioneer in natural raw materials, IFF LMR has been committed to sustainable development since 1983 and works with small local producers around the world to provide us with quality ingredients, grown with respect for people and the planet.
In addition, synthetic molecules may cause adverse health effects. Various analyses, including a Greenpeace study in 2005, have shown that some fragrances contain chemical components that are hazardous to health. Moreover, synthetic molecules are regularly banned from perfumes because of doubts about their effects endocrine disruptors or carcinogenic.
The latest example is lilial, which was widely used in perfumes to represent the smell of lily of the valley. It was completely banned a few months ago, after being classified as CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, Reprotoxic). Many ingredients are now classified as CMR: you can find the list on the INRS website.
How can I be sure that the synthesis is safe?
By using it sparingly and carefully. That's why Bastille has set strict specifications for the 5% synthetic ingredients we use in our fragrances: no endocrine disruptors, no phthalates or parabens, and of course no ingredients classified as CMR!
Another solution could be the development of green chemistry, which uses agro-industrial co-products (such as beet pulp or sugar molasses) instead of traditional petrochemical ingredients. A natural process and a circular economy: everything we like! Very expensive at the moment because it is still at the experimental stage, green chemistry will probably wait a few years before (hopefully) revolutionizing fragrance.
You get the "look at the label" reflex.
The problem is that from a legal point of view, perfume is still considered a trade secret. Therefore, there is no obligation to reveal the ingredients that make it up, apart from the rare allergens that must be listed.
That's why Bastille 's approach is pioneering: we've decided to be totally transparent about our ingredients, a small revolution in perfumery! Our formulas are available on our internet siteand the natural and synthetic ingredients are clearly differentiated, so there's no secret between us.
We hope we've been able to enlighten you! Don't hesitate to write to us if you still have questions: [email protected]. See you soon!
Photo credits : Ashley Kane, A Heart StringJules Theret
For more information: cost of vanilla, animal notes in perfumery,
Sources : IFF LMR, Greenpeace study, list of CMR substances
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