Wellness, relaxation: is cannabis perfume a good idea?

Cannabis, hemp, CBD... for a few months now, cosmetics have taken hold of this little green plant, which is more or less legal in France. A craze that has grown since the confinements of 2020: according to some, cannabis would be the essential ingredient of the magic formula against stress. So much so that some people are now offering cannabis perfume!

So, fact or fiction? That's what Bastille has clarified for you in this article, with the help of Tilyo, a young, committed brand offering botanical CBD oils.

Relax, we'll explain everything!

Cannabis, hemp and CBD: the differences

Let's start with the basics. You thought cannabis and hemp were the same thing? No way. The differences are subtle, but they do matter - especially if you're discussing it with a person in authority, if you know what we mean.

Cannabis

Cannabis is the famous green leafy plant that you may have tried as a narcotic in your youth, or even more recently (just between us). Its special feature is that it contains a large amount of cannabinoids in its leaves, stems and flowers. It is these chemicals, secreted by the plant, that have a more or less important impact on the nervous system and the brain, once the plant is smoked or ingested.

Among these substances is the famous tetrahydrocannabinol, better known by the acronym THC. This molecule, much sought-after by cannabis users, has significant psychotropic effects on the brain. In short, it can take you above the clouds or into the arms of Morpheus: unfortunately, your brain decides that for you.

CBD

CBD is another cannabinoid found in cannabis. Its real name is cannabidiol, andCBD is not psychotropic: that is, unlike THC, it does not produce harmful effects such as euphoria or drowsiness. As for the benefits, we'll tell you all about them later in the article... patience, patience. We said we were relaxing.

Hemp

Hemp is a variety of cannabis that has the particularity of having a very low THC content (less than 0.2% on average, compared to 5 to 20% in cannabis), while being rich in CBD. That's why you often see it in herbal teas, cosmetics and other everyday products.

Attention, subtlety: do not confuse hemp oil and CBD oil.

• The first is made from hemp seeds: it contains no cannabinoids but is high in protein and saturated fatty acids. It is used in cooking and is even recommended for cardiovascular health!
• CBD oil is extracted from hemp flowers with a low THC content but a high CBD concentration. It is an oil that you will find mainly in beauty and wellness rituals, like at Tilyo!

What are the benefits of CBD?

Even if studies are still underway, CBD has shown rather positive results when it comes to treating insomnia, certain chronic inflammations, reducing stress or even fighting against skin ageing or dehydration of the skin. A daily ally, especially when you live in stressful cities like Paris! It is for all these benefits that CBD can be found in all its forms: herbal teas, gummies, anti-ageing creams, moisturisers, edible oils such as at Tilyo, etc. Ingenious marketing pros have therefore naturally decided to launch "cannabis" or "CBD" flavours. The descriptions speak of "hypnotic heart notes" and other "healing benefits". But what is it really?

CBD perfume: a false good idea

First of all, let's take a look at the smell of cannabis itself. If you've ever smelled it, you'll probably be familiar with this description. Here's how Nicolas Beaulieu, perfumer at IFF, describes it Bataille :

"For me, there are as many smells of cannabis, weed or marijuana as there are varieties of these plants; but to my mind they always have in common an acidic start, an aromatic herbaceous facet, and finally an acrid resinous note, more or less balsamic".

Interesting, isn't it? To be perfectly honest, we tested a cannabis accord at Bastille and, after exploring all its facets, found it rather difficult to exploit in a fragrance. In short, it took up a lot of space for a result that wasn't exactly seductive - even when complemented with a slightly more appealing sandalwood. But in the end, what made us abandon the idea of a CBD fragrance for the time being was that these cannabis accords are simply... artificially recreated.

Because yes: unfortunately, hemp and CBD oils do not smell strong enough to be used in perfumery. The cannabis scent is therefore recreated through a mixture of several raw materials(this is called an accord), which can be both natural and synthetic.

For the curious, here is how Nicolas Beaulieu recreates the smell of cannabis:

• "For the acidic start: I often translate it by sulphurous notes of grapefruit or rhubarb, sometimes both
• For the aromatic, herbaceous side: I like to use sage or oregano
• And finally, the acrid resinous note: you can use tobacco, hay, or even a Java vetiver for its earthy smokiness.

In short, this means that a "cannabis" or "CBD" flavour does not actually have any of the relaxing properties of CBD... It's a nice marketing argument, but don't expect miraculous effects!

Plan B: Essential oils

If you're looking for the same relaxing effects as CBD, with the addition of a pleasant olfactory dimension, you can turn to essential oils. Their impact on our emotions is unquestionable. In fact, we've put together a handy guide to the subject, which you can read here. In short: if you're looking for relaxation, your best allies are lavender and orange blossom essential oils. And, by the way, some of these essential oils are found naturally in fragrances Bastille. An overview of our feel-good fragrances:

Demain Promis: a soft, enveloping and relaxing fragrance with a hint of lavender, accompanied by sandalwood and musk:

Pleine LuneA superb floral bouquet containing neroli essential oil and orange blossom absolute, perfect for relaxing in the evening:

By the way: is CBD legal?

Good question. In 2021, the legislation on the use of CBD is still rather vague and difficult to apply. This is why most of the major cosmetic companies are not willing to venture into the marketing of CBD products. To recap, at last count (July 2021) :

• CBD-based products have been free to circulate on European territory, and therefore in France, since November 2020, provided that the finished product contains 0% THC.
• The case of cannabis flowers, known for their high concentration of CBD, is still debated (especially since some smart people prefer to smoke it).

For its part, Tilyo has taken up the challenge of offering CBD edible oils while respecting French regulations. The hemp is produced in France, then extracted with supercritical CO2 in order to keep all the benefits of the plant while ensuring 0% THC in the final oil, as proven by the laboratory. We validate!

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Photos: Benjamin Brunner, Teanna Morgan, Kelly Sikkema, Jules Theret
Sources: Nicolas Beaulieu, Le Monde, https://www.cbd.fr/