Sun and perfume: save your skin from the ordeal

It'ssummertime! We live for aperitifs in the sun, afternoons at the beach and bike rides. In short, we are enjoying the sun... except that we should be a little more wary of it. Because the sun can be a real danger for our skin, especially if we are not careful to avoid photosensitizing products. 

Whether you're the type to break out the SPF 50 cream in March or you're more into unprotected sunbathing, chances are you've already heard of photosensitisation, but don't really know what it is.

Believe us, it's worth spending three minutes before going out in the sun - to avoid skin blemishes, which can sometimes be stubborn... We take stock of the situation with Dr. Plasqui, dermatologist and specialist in aesthetic medicine, who advises us on the right gestures for the summer.

Risks to understand 

Basically, photosensitisation is a hyper-reactivity of the skin that is triggered when it is exposed to the sun. As Dr. Plasqui explains:

"Our skin becomes more sensitive, tends to redden easily and above all, the melanocytes (the small name for the cells that are responsible for our tan) are likely to produce more melanin, which can unfortunately cause brown spots to appear on the skin.

There are two types of photosensitisation: phototoxicity and photoallergy, which have different causes. Follow the guide. 

Phototoxicity

Phototoxicity is a skin reaction caused by the interaction of a chemical substance on your skin (for example, an ingredient in your moisturiser) with light. In fact, light activates a chemical reaction that makes that chemical substance appear to be a toxic substance. toxic to the skin. The result: irritation, erythematous patches (we'll let you google to get an idea of the result) and sometimes even more or less superficial burns. In short, not exactly what you had on the menu for your holidays in Corsica.

Photoallergy

Photoallergy, on the other hand, is a real allergy of your skin to sunlight and does not require any chemical substance to be triggered. The results on the epidermal barrier are irritation, small pimples, hives... Again, not the best for picking up women at the beach bar.

How can you protect your skin from these dangers? 

We apologise in advance: you'll have to sort out your toiletries for the holidays. Ban all cosmetic actives that are likely to become toxic to your skin in the light, such as :

• fruit acids (the most classic is called AHA, found in many creams and serums)
• retinol a.k.a. vitamin A, the star of anti-ageing creams
• Triclosan, often found in deodorants and also an endocrine disruptor, so we hope it has already been banned from your bathroom. If not, read our article on endocrine disruptors: in 5 minutes, you'll know how to avoid them in your daily products!
• other ingredients known to be photoallergenic such as oxybenzone, benzophenone, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)... Fun fact: some of them can be found in our sun creams. Yes, you read that right!

Finally, to protect your skin, Dr. Plasqui has one last piece of advice: "Avoid scrubs just before exposure to the sun: they destroy the dead skin cells that form a natural barrier to protect it from light rays.

What about perfume?

This brings us to the long-awaited subject of essential oils, and therefore perfumes, since they are very often composed of them. Many plants are photosensitising because of a particular type of molecule they contain: furocoumarins (also known as psoralens). Whether they are in plant form or already transformed into essential oils, these molecules can cause reactions on your skin.

These include the delicious bergamot (star of our fragrance Pleine Lune), lemon and fig, but also celery, fennel, carrot, coriander, parsnip, dill, parsley, aniseed and angelica! Florists and market gardeners are well aware of the need to wash their hands after handling them... 

As a general rule, essential oils and the sun do not mix well. Does this mean that you should totally banish perfume in the summer? Don't worry, it's not necessary. Of course, to be on the safe side, we advise you toavoid exposing yourself to the sun just after wearing perfume, unless you cover your skin afterwards (you can test the perfume under your T-shirt: it's very effective). However, as an alternative, you can simply perfume your clothes: this will allow you to have a perfectly serene mind.

Hydroalcoholic gel, friend or foe? 

The best friend of your handbag since 2020, basic hydroalcoholic gel containing alcohol and glycerine does not contain any photosensitising ingredients. On the other hand, it is very aggressive for the skin and, combined with the sun, the skin will be even more aggressed. So be careful not to overuse it on the beach! In any case, its effectiveness is altered from the moment you have wet hands - so when you're at the beach, opt for a good solid soap: that's when we're sure it works.

The problem of photosensitisation of a hydroalcoholic gel can occur when it contains perfumes and/or essential oils. Once again, the precautionary principle: avoid exposure to the sun after using it.

Medication and sun: what are the risks?

We don't always think about it, but many drugs are photosensitising, whether they are applied locally or taken orally (for example, you have to be careful with anti-inflammatory drugs, whether they are in cream or tablet form!) Your doctor or pharmacist will warn you in advance, but remember to reread the instructions before swallowing your medicine and going out to sunbathe. 

How to prepare your skin for the sun? 

To prepare your skin for the sun, you need to rebalance it from the inside and the outside. Dr. Plasqui advises us:

"On the inside, bet on anti-oxidants that help limit the harmful effects of the sun. They are found in coloured fruit and vegetables (peppers, grapes, etc.). Also consider taking a little turmeric: it helps to limit the appearance of spots on the skin! On the outside: you should moisturise at the end of the day to soothe your skin, and to ensure an even tan that lasts, you should exfoliate your skin no more than 15 days before exposure to the sun.

That's it! You've got everything you need to take care of your skin this summer. We'll leave you to sort out your toiletry bag and look at the ingredients in your cosmetics. It takes a little time but your skin will thank you! - and we've also put together a little green selection for you to enjoy the season with peace of mind.

And if you want to understand your product labels better and become more knowledgeable on the subject, we've made an article with some simple and effective tips, right here: 

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Sources:INRS website and Dr. Plasqui
Photos: unknown and Jules Theret